Low Oil Pressure O-300D (2025)

C

Chiefairwrench

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  • Oct 17, 2017
  • #1

As you may now I am putting back together a Cessna 172E that has been sitting for awhile doing a visual of the inside of the crankcase and putting new cylinders Superior. I was very excite to ground run and everything was fine. Since I had all the flight controls removed and no tail was installed when I took possession of the aircraft a check flight was conducted. During the flight around 3500 ft and about 80% power the oil pressure went lower to green and pilot reported that it appeared to go lower oil temp was fine. He pulled the aircraft to idle and of course the oil pressure went to the edge of the red he decided and do the right thing and landed the aircraft. I went to a few well known O-300 guys they said to remove the pressure regulator clean inspect plunger and seat and spring. After doing so I ran the engine and what the pilot saw I watched the oil do the same as described. Every one say to change the spring. I have ordered it so my question to the community how many has experienced this same thing and the spring was the actual cause. I just got a sneaky suspicion that it is the bearings. The reason I think so is the 5 washer under the spring and it was OH around 1996 and about 479 SMOH it just seems real soon to have so many washers under the spring with so low time.

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M

mayday

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  • Oct 18, 2017
  • #2

Oil pressure fine when it starts, then falls as the oil temp rises? It is possible bearings are the culprit but with such low TSOH (20 years doesn't really mean much), I'd tend to think it's not worn bearings. I just pulled a 2200 o-360 apart that still had clearances that fell into "new" tolerances.

It could also be the oil pump, they are not really great flowing pumps to begin with and if any debris or abnormal wear damages the housing or gears, you will lose efficiency.

I'd be interested in hearing what you find out, I am having similar issues with my GO-300.

L

Leadnut

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  • Oct 18, 2017
  • #3

First thing. Is your gauge correct? Symptoms don't sound like a gauge but it's worth checking. 0-300's typically have a tough bottom end able to go well beyond TBO.

If the spring doesn't work, before splitting the case, the accessory case will have to be removed. Have the oil pump in the accessory case inspected. Could be the pump itself may be out of spec or the pump cover was not torqued properly warping the cover plate. Another symptom besides low oil pressure of a worn pump would be the pump will be slow to pull oil from the sump or may not want to prime itself after an oil change and fine screen inspection... Ask me how I know

Low Oil Pressure O-300D (1)

4

4313

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  • Oct 18, 2017
  • #4

I'd put another washer or two under the spring and see what happens to pressure, with 5 washers a new spring sounds like a good idea. I don't think these get changed very often even on "overhauled" engines
Did the pressure drop in flight or just get lower as the engine oil warmed up?
My o-300 runs 45 cold/ hot at high rpm but when it's hot the idle pressure drops to red line, seems Continental allows idle pressure to be below lower red line, what are the pressures you see on this engine?

Alan

Joeman434

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  • Oct 18, 2017
  • #5

I've never had a Continental with high oil pressure. In my opinion, they all seem to run a little on the low side, but consistent, and according to Continental, that's fine. As long as the pressure isn't gradually dropping, or going below the minimum, it should be good. Close monitoring would tell you if the pressure is gradually dropping between now and the next oil change

Showboatsix

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  • Oct 18, 2017
  • #6

Verify the psi with a mechanical gauge first, then condemn other things next!

C

Chiefairwrench

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  • Oct 18, 2017
  • #7

Here is a You tube video I made of the last run. Ignore the title I was in a hurry to send it to my engine buddies.

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Showboatsix

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  • Oct 18, 2017
  • #8

Put a mechanical gauge on the engine psi out port and verify the psi, so you know exactly what you have.
T it into the system so you can see instrument gauge and other gauge.
Then you will know just what you have.

C

Chiefairwrench

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  • Oct 22, 2017
  • #9

Ok Ladies and Gentleman here is the results. I change the spring and plunger on on the pressure regulator ran the engine dipped below or at 25 psi at 2300 to 2275 static run Out side Temp around 65 to 70 F. And engine temp maybe 200 F to 190. Bought a proper oil pressure gauge for testing and hooked it up again around 25 on the first run Same rpm and outside 65 and engine better around 190 to 180. Second run of the day took some advise put 3 thick AN-960 washers under the new spring. Did quick run since it was already warm. Gauge read great at idle 700 RPM around 11 psi but failed on the power run as temp increased again making 2275 to 2300 I let it go to 28 to 26 psi still not making 30 psi ..Looks like daddy is at OH of the power section. I would be betting that the wrong bearings were installed at last OH since the engine only have about 500 hr SMOH

M

magman

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buffalo NY
  • Oct 23, 2017
  • #10

You may want to flush the Oil Pressure Gage Tubing from the

Engine to the Gage.

I had one block up with congealed Oil & it

showed 0 psi just after TO.

Flushed Line after similar action with Shorts.

L

Leadnut

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  • Oct 23, 2017
  • #11

Keep us posted what you find! At least you'll know exactly what you have when it's all done. Peace of mind! Take a really hard look at the oil pump. Not to pee in any ones Cheerio's, pump gears from Continental were around $1300 for the two last I checked. Gears usually don't go bad tho. The magnesium housing is more likely to wear "if" there is anything wrong with the pump.

Joeman434

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  • Oct 23, 2017
  • #12

I'm guessing you've checked the suction screen, correct? So before you go farther, possibly your oil pump could be worn. Continental made an upgraded oil pump which may solve your problem. If your engine has the older square drive pump, the upgrade won't work, but you can still have your pump reworked. I can't say I have ever seen bearings on a Continental worn so bad it loses oil pressure.....but anything is possible. From your post, you mention you bought a proper (manual) gauge...so it is hooked up to the engine directly??

L

Leadnut

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  • Oct 23, 2017
  • #13

Another bit of info. If it turns out you need a cam, there are two different grinds with the same part no. The early cam has the part no along the length of the cam. The better later cam has the number stamped around the cam. Difference is the duration of lift and it is said the later cam makes a little more power above 2400 RPM. Looking at the two together it is easy to see the difference. The later cam will fit any 0-300 and started with the 0300-D's if I'm not mistaken.

If you end up needing a crank, I have one that is yellow tagged and preserved but the bushings for the dynamic dampers are just on the edge of max new tolerance which is not an expensive repair if you wanted return it to "within" new tolerance. It is good to run. It is within new standard dimension mains and rods (has not been ground undersize) and 6 bolt prop flange as yours and 0-300C's and later are.

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